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Israel Author: George Burden Date: 2008-10-13
Rating: Votes: 7
An Israeli friend of mine likes to joke that after searching for forty years, Moses still managed to settle on the only place in the Middle East that didn't have any oil. While he may have missed the mark in the oil department, Moses did manage to find one of the most beautiful and varied spots in this part of the world.
In a country the size of the province of Nova Scotia, a visitor to Israel can ski on Mount Hebron in the north, then drive a few hours south to scuba dive on a coral reef in Eilat. Along the way you pass world class vineyards, lush valleys with cascading waterfalls and fresh water lakes, then travel through desert and through the lowest place on the planet. You'll also experience 4000 years of history and touch on places that are holy to Islam, Judaism and Christianity.
When I told my friends and family that I was going to Israel they expressed fears about both my safety and sanity. They needn't have worried. I felt safer here than in many other countries I've visited and certain neighbourhoods in Halifax. Security was evident but not obtrusive.
Our trip began in Tel Aviv (loosely translated as "Spring Hill"), once the capital and a modern city with its origin in the early Twentieth Century, when a group of immigrants plotted out a city among the sand dunes just south of the port of Jaffa. Israelis say that people go to Tel Aviv to play and Jerusalem to pray. With its funky Retro Bauhaus architecture, hot night clubs and a white sand beach running the length of the city I could see why the city is still the place to be for youthful (and not-so-youthful) fun-lovers.
Heading north along the coast we arrived at the ruined city of Caesarea, built by King Herod the Great. Incorporating an amphitheatre and hippodrome for chariot races it was the place to be for the party crowd two thousand years ago.
Further north we arrived at Haifa with its charming German Colony, fine restaurants and the golden domed Baha'i shrine, designed by Canadian architect William Maxwell. Here, atop Mount Carmel and set among manicured gardens is interred the Bab, one of the prophets of the newest world religion. Here also is the headquarters of the Carmelite order, its church built over the cave where the Old Testament prophet, Elijah, is reputed to have resided.
Further north we ventured into the old Crusader capital of Akko with its underground Crusader city, Templar tunnels, Arab markets and some of the best fresh fish I've tasted at the Uri Buria Fish Restaurant. Uri, the owner, looks more like a jovial Santa Claus than a chef, but his cuisine belies his appearance.
Venturing north into Galilee we arrived at Banias, the site of the Biblical city of Caesarea Philippi. Among the gushing springs and waterfalls at the base of Mount Hermon, one of the sources of the Jordan River, it is famous as the place where Jesus told his disciple Peter that he would be the "rock upon which I will build my church". Here also was a temple housing a cave and spring sacred to the god, Pan.
With its Mediterranean climate and ample water, northern Galilee has also been a great place to make wine for thousands of years. The ultra-modern Galil Mountain winery, perched on the border with Lebanon, is worth a visit to try delightful Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz varietals.
A visit to the "far north" of Israel, to the town of Metulla is of special interest to Canadians who will enjoy seeing the only hockey arena in Israel! Donated by wealthy Torontonians, the Canada Centre provides not only an ice surface but a pool, squash and basketball courts to locals.
From here we proceeded south towards the Sea of Galilee (Lake Kinneret) where we overnighted at the Mizpe Hayamim (Lake View) Hotel and Spa. High on Mount Canaan the resort is located in lush gardens and incorporates an organic farm which provides the entire hotel's food. With a semi-Olympic pool, tennis courts and incomparable views of the Hula Valley and the Sea of Galilee many guests feel like they never want to leave.
Also on Mount Canaan is Safed, one of the four Jewish holy cities and birth place of the mystical Jewish Cabalistic practices. Its narrow medieval lanes house a thriving artist's colony.
From here we descended to Capernaum on the shores of the Sea of Galilee to visit the village where St. Peter lived. Be sure to explore the ruins of the ancient village and visit the Synagogue that Jesus and Peter attended. Nearby is the place where Jesus is said to have fed the multitudes via the Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.
We continued south through the bustling regional capital of Tiberias, pausing at the point where the Jordan River exits the Sea of Galilee. Many Christian visitors choose to be baptized here but I was content to wade in and scoop up a bottle of water to take home.
From here the terrain becomes more and more desert-like. We traveled south along the Jordan River Valley passing Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. Ahead we saw a gorgeous blue lake, whose appearance belied its name, the Dead Sea. An overnight stay allowed us time to go for a swim (or perhaps float might be a better term) on the dense saline waters of the lowest point on the planet, 400 meters below sea level. The Dead Sea has been known since Biblical times as the spot to treat skin diseases. The health insurance plans of some European countries actually find it cheaper to send severe psoriasis sufferers here for a holiday, rather than do UV treatments in hospital. Don't drink the water, though. Our guide told us half a cup is enough to bring on renal failure.
The next day we carried on to Masada. This mountain top plateau was the site of a palace and fortress built by King Herod over 2000 years ago. An ingenious system of cisterns allowed him to turn Masada into a hill top oasis, but it is famous as the last hold out of the First Jewish Revolt against the Romans. Though the rest of Judea had been captured by 70 CE the Zealots on Masada held out until 73 CE when General Flavius Silva was able to build a siege ramp and breech the walls. Almost 1000 people chose to commit suicide, rather than suffer slavery or execution at the hands of the Romans.
From the mountain top the Roman camp and siege ramp are still clearly visible. To the east visitors enjoy incomparable views of the Dead Sea and beyond it Jordan. It's almost fascinating to wander through the ruins of Herod's palaces, the synagogue and view the remains of his swimming pools. A cable car takes visitors to and from Masada but I chose to walk down the so-called Snake Path in 41 degree heat. My confreres who took the cable car back down applauded and said "well done" when I finally plodded into the park's reception centre. I told them I thought I was more likely "medium rare".
Our next stop was a two day visit to Jerusalem staying at the Dan Boutique, a brand new hotel near the Jaffa Gate of the Old City. Jerusalem is divided into four quarters: Moslem, Armenian, Christian and Jewish, each with its own character and charm. A trip to the Mount of Olives provides an excellent initial overview of the town with the eye immediately being attracted to the golden Dome of the Rock, atop the hill where King Solomon's temple once stood. The only part of the temple left above ground is the western or so-called "Wailing Wall". As it was Saturday, or Jewish Sabbath the wall was graced with hundreds of the faithful praying. A tradition has it that you should write down a wish and insert it into a crevice of the wall to make it come true.
Christians will enjoy visiting the Garden of Gethsemane and afterwards entering the city to visit the Crusader Era building which marks the Upper Room where Jesus had his Last Passover Supper. While there I noticed a group of Christian fundamentalists were weeping and "speaking in tongues", the latter an unintelligible pattern of speech said to characterize one possessed of the Holy Spirit. Typical of Jerusalem, the downstairs holds King David's tomb a very sacred spot for those of the Jewish faith.
Further on, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher houses a number of different Christian denominations. Due to territorial disputes an agreement was reached in the mid-1800's stating that nothing could be changed in the edifice. As a result, a ladder has stood over the entry way for 150 years, as no one is allowed to remove it. Inside the church are shrines, one said to mark the Hill of Calvary where Jesus was crucified. Visitors can reach beneath the altar and touch the top of the hill, now totally enclosed. The cave believed to be the tomb of Jesus is also open to those who wish to descend within.
Our penultimate day in the Holy Land was crowned by visit was to Israeli Museum's Shrine of the Book and a chance to see the Dead Sea Scrolls. Translated, these documents confirm the accuracy of present day translations of the Old Testament as well as providing insight into the lives of an ancient and reclusive Jewish sect, the Essenes.
The Yad Vashem Museum of the Holocaust provides a sobering look at the insidious was in which a harmless minority can be demonized and ultimately subjected to genocide. The modernistic building was designed by Canadian-Israeli architect Moshe Safdie.
The next morning we headed back to Ben Gurion International Airport. On the way we stopped at the Caprice Diamond Factory and Showroom. Since Israel is one of the world's major diamond cutting centers, it is a good place to buy cut diamonds. They'll even custom set them for you while you wait. Tell Sam I sent you and he'll give you a discount.
Overall, Israel proved to be a fascinating and historical destination, a land which has had a disproportionate influence on world culture and religion. Appropriately, the in-flight movie on our return El Al flight to Toronto was "The Bucket List". I thought to myself, everyone would be well rewarded to put Israel on their own personal "bucket list".
If You Go...
Israel Government Tourism Office-Canada www.goisrael.ca 416-964-3784
